ONLY A SURFER KNOWS THE AMAZING FEELING (added 10.01.10)
There is a saying that only a surfer knows the feeling. After waking up early this morning, trying to ignore my body’s protesting cries, the minute I saw the ocean, my leg rope was strapped to my ankle, and I felt the cooling waters lap over my skin I remembered how true that saying really is. There is such a powerful connection a surfer has with the ocean; it is difficult to put into words and if you have felt it, you just know it.
It constantly amazes me how you can feel such a strong sense of solidarity, of calmness and introspection out in the ocean, whether you are by yourself or out surfing with a mate. That is the power of surfing, the moment is all yours. The feeling is exhilarating, it’s majestic, and there is nothing else really like it.
Your desire and determination to catch that next wave, the feeling of power and success when you do, and the frustrations of feeling weak when you are struggling to paddle, and make it out the back all culminates to make surfing my own personal challenge, and what is more rewarding than that.
Without sounding like a complete weirdo, to me, there is something liberating and amazing about feeling so insignificant against the ocean’s power. It really puts things into perspective. I think we all have this ability to get ahead of ourselves, and without meaning to, think we are more powerful or important than we really are.
The ocean makes us stop and remember our place in the world. Reminds us that we are not invincible and there are always things out there more powerful and forceful than us.
Being out there with the vastness of the ocean alone with your thoughts makes you think. I travel the world for beautiful moments in time like this, surfing in my home town gives me everything I seek out when travelling. Surfing, and being in the ocean, like travelling makes me feel alive and whole.